Beyond summits and sea sand
Jazz Kuschke
Posted Mon, 24 Sep 2007
A dodgy line and a clump of grass had cost us an hour, plenty of rocks and a good deal of frustration. It was my slightly off-track approach to a rutted mud section, 2693 metres above sea level in the northern Eastern Cape, which left the metallic, American-style beast of a pick-up in need of a jack and the 'road' in urgent need of reconstruction.
"All part of the fun," Wartrail guide Chris Isted chuckled as he cleaned his pocketknife after cutting a wheel-sized clump of rhwashu (chassis-catching grass of the region, pronounced 'gwa-shoo') from under the diff.
Stones packed and jack stacked, we managed to get out some time after the fifth attempt. Onwards through to the peak, and a seldom seen angle of Ben Macdhui — on which Tiffindell, South Africa's skiing centre, is built. This was the first summit of the Eastern Cape's trails; three more, a forest and some sea sand were still to be conquered.
1. THE WARTRAIL
Take note of:
Its proximity to the winter playground, Tiffindell Ski Resort.
The way there
Take the R58 from Lady Grey towards Barkly East. After 48km, turn left onto
a gravel road to New England. Follow the Wartrail/Lundeans Nek signs. It takes
about an hour on the dirt road to Reedsdell.
Make a plan
Contact Chris Isted or Kath Cells on tel 045-974-9900, e-mail isted@telkomsa.net
or visit http://www.snowvalley.co.za.
Difficulty: ###
Minimum time: Five hours
Guided: Compulsory
Cost: R500 guide fee
Maximum: Eight vehicles
Description: Eastern Cape Drakensberg summit
The
lowdown
This summit hugger in the hills of the southwestern Drakensberg varies from
well-maintained dirt tracks to rough and exciting trailless grass knolls and
valleys. It was originally a motorbike track and Chris, the two-wheel guru,
will take you to all his favourite bike-riding spots (and explain how the obstacles
would be negotiated if you were on a bike), then skilfully steer you through
in your vehicle... even when you get stuck in a rogue mud pit.
2. GONJAH
Take note of
The trail's proximity to the Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area, with its forgotten
gorges and peaceful camp sites.
The way there
Get your trail map and further directions from Tolbos Kontrei Winkel in Patensie's
main street.
Make a plan
Contact Kobus Scheepers, tel 082-492-3335 or 042-283-0596, e-mail gonjah@baviaans.net
or visit http://www.baviaans.net/gonjah.htm.
Difficulty: ###
Minimum time: Four hours
Guided: No
Cost: R150 a vehicle
Maximum: 10 vehicles
Description: Summit at eastern end of Baviaanskloof Wilderness Area
The lowdown
The longer of two trails at Gonjah runs along the ridge separating the citrus-producing Gamtoos Valley from the Baviaanskloof mountain wilderness. With Cockscomb Peak as a constant backdrop, views in all directions on this trail are of horizon-creasing hills, shadowy gorges and army-green slopes.
While these are the sights that will lure you back, the old adage "getting there is half the fun" rings true — there are some tricky driving sections. These vehicle testers usually entail loose rocks and steep inclines.
3. FERNDALE
Take note of
Fishing for indigenous yellowfish in the river.
The way there
Turn left at the FNB in Cathcart's main road. Follow the road out of town, after
2,3km turn right onto a gravel road at the Henderson & Bacela sign; Ferndale
is 22km further on.
Make a plan
Contact Gary Miles on tel 082-745-4154 or 043-736-6149 or Butch James (not the
rugby player) on tel 045-843-1741 or 082-784-4979.
Difficulty: ## to ####
Minimum time: Three hours
Guided: On request
Cost: R170 a vehicle
Description: Spectacular mountain summit
The lowdown
There are three different trails at
Ferndale. All are well signposted and vary
in difficulty and terrain, making this a popular off-road destination for first-timers
and SUV drivers. For the hardcore, hi-lift-jack carrying heavies, there's talk
of a rocky section being added which will be navigable only with the use of
a winch. Adding to the family appeal of the place is the abundance of game,
natural swimming pools and comfortable river-side camping.
4. TSITSIKAMMA OFF-ROAD EXPERIENCE
Take note of
The birds. Take your binoculars and bird book and look out for shy specials
such as narina trogons, forest buzzards and the famed Knysna turacos.
The way there
Take the R102 off the N2 (from Plettenberg Bay or Port Elizabeth) towards Coldstream.
After 2,5km turn right at a large rock entrance towards the Lottering Forest
Station.
Make a plan
Contact Graeme Pienaar on tel 042-281-1712 or 072-704-5640, e-mail gpi@mto.co.za.
Difficulty: ##
Minimum time: Four hours
Guided: No
Cost: R200 a vehicle plus R30 a person (for day visitors)
Description: Indigenous forest, close to Plettenberg Bay
The lowdown
Previously reserved for hikers, the Bloukrantz, Keurbos and Heuningbos huts
on the Tsitsikamma Trail have been opened to vehicular access. While cruising
the roads used to ferry luggage between the overnight stops for the slackpacking hike won't cause any white-knuckle moments,
it's an ideal day trip from Port Elizabeth or Plettenberg Bay and an amazing,
blister-free way to see the mountains and indigenous rainforest.
Sleep in the same huts used for the hiking trail.
This feature originally appeared in Getaway Magazine. For more, visit getawaytoafrica.co.za
