How to pass a roadworthy test
Posted Mon, 24 Sep 2007
If you want to sell your car or change ownership, you will need to get it through a roadworthy test.
Here are a few guidelines to follow to check if your car is roadworthy:
Vehicle Identification
The vehicle is identified by the engine and chassis numbers. Remember that if any of these numbers differ from the vehicle identification on the vehicle registration certificate, the vehicle will have to be sent for a Police Clearance.
Electrical system
The electrical system, which is the biggest reason why vehicles fail their roadworthy test and include head and dip lights, parking and number plate lights, indicators, stop and tail lights, hooter, windscreen wipers, battery, generator, alternator and wiring. Here you will need to ensure you have no missing battery clamps, which are readily obtainable and easy to fit, as well as check you have no loose or exposed wiring. Headlights must be in focus in the right direction. Cracked lenses can also be unsafe if the gap allows moisture to collect in the lamp reflector and cause rust and other damage in this area. With regards to lights, the law states that all lamps fitted to a motor vehicle must be undamaged, properly secured and capable of being lighted at all times.
Door and handles
All doors on your vehicle should be able to open and close easily, from the inside and the outside, and they should be firmly attached at the hinges. Inner door panels should also be in a good condition and not have any sharp edges that could cause injury.
Windows and window winders
Ensure the glass used for your windows is safety glass and clearly identifiable as safety glass. Also check that all windows can open and close easily and that all window winders are fitted on your vehicle.
Safety belts
Seat belts must fasten and release with ease, and make sure the belt is not torn, frayed or damaged in any way. Ensure your belt has the SABS approval mark or another acceptable national or international approval mark. Also remember that a safety belt is only designed to be used once in one accident, and after the accident it should be replaced with a new seatbelt. It is not advisable to replace a seatbelt with one from a scrap yard. The inertia mechanism (that allows the seatbelt to retract) should operate properly.
Seats
Assess whether your seats in your vehicle are firmly secured and the bolts or screws used for this purpose are also secured. Padding material and springs must also not be exposed.
Fuel tank and cap
Ensure you have a fuel cap and that it works effectively, whether it is fitted with a cable release mechanism or a key operated lock or and ordinary screw-on-cap.
The chassis and under-carriage rust
This is a high priority safety item as any weakness in the structure of the chassis is a danger to the whole vehicle. If there is any rust in this area it is not roadworthy and the best method of repair is to affix a metal plate by means of welding.
Body rust
One needs to see if there are any corroded sharp edges that can cause injury to pedestrians or cyclists, or damage to other vehicles. Also check if there is any corrosion that can significantly affect safety when it affects structural parts, e.g. around seat mounting points (for example a seat held by only three bolts can easily collapse), seat-belt mounting points, door hinges and latches, pedal mounting and bonnet mounting, door pillars and floors (especially wells). Finally see if there are any holes in the body panels that can cause injury or affect safety.
Common spots for rust are normally in the cavities of the body which is hollow and allows for the accumulation of moisture.
Wheels
Inspect your wheels to see if the tread is at least 1mm deep on the whole tyre and even your spare wheel should conform to this requirement. Causes of tread-wear on a tyre include incorrect tyre pressure, wheels not properly aligned, worn shock absorbers and also wheel bearing play.
Brakes
Check the brakes of your car with extreme diligence. Simply changing the front disc pads is dangerous if no attention is given to the rear. Ensure that the brake disc is not badly grooved or concaved. The best method is to skim the brake disc facings before replacing the disc pads. Don't ignore your rear brakes as they take up at least 40 percent of the braking function. If there is a slight wetness around the rubber boots of the brake cylinders rather replace them. Brake fluid leaks occur when the brake system is under pressure and monitor when last you replaced your brake fluid. Also check if steering components, tie-rod and draglink ends are worn as well as shock-absorbers and wheel alignment.
Other major safety items that are checked are the front and rear suspension, the engine and gearbox mountings and the exhaust system.
» Article supplied by AVTS.
